The Enduring of Rolex’s “Root Beer” GMT-Masters
The term “Root Beer” conjures images of frothy nostalgia – a creamy, caramel-hued soda from a bygone era. In the world of horology, it’s a nickname reserved for a rare breed of Rolex GMT-Masters, watches that blend warmth and complexity in their design. But like the drink itself, the “Root Beer” label is polarizing. You either savor its retro appeal or find it cloyingly out of step with modern tastes. As a self-proclaimed admirer, I’ve long been drawn to these replica watches, though not without a twinge of irony: I typically avoid brown watches, yet the Root Beer’s mix of caramel, cream, and gold has me hooked. But which iteration captures the essence best – the vintage classic or its contemporary counterpart? 
The Roots of the “Root Beer”
The story begins in 1970 with the Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675/3, a steel-and-yellow-gold hybrid with a brown dial and a bezel striped in earthy brown and vanilla. This was no ordinary tool watch. It was a jet-setter’s companion, flaunting a country-club swagger that resonated with icons like Clint Eastwood, who wore his with rugged sophistication. The original’s charm lay in its imperfections: tritium lume aging to a buttery patina, an acrylic crystal prone to scratches, and a Jubilee bracelet that jingled like loose change. It wasn’t just a watch – it was a mood. 
Fast-forward to 2018, and Rolex served up two new takes on the theme: the €43,900 all-Everose-gold ref. 126715CHNR and the two-tone “Root Beer Lite” (ref. 126711CHNR) at €17,500. Both feature Cerachrom bezels in black and brown, a far cry from the vintage cream-and-brown combo. The dials, too, swapped warm cocoa for sleek noir. While undeniably luxurious, these modern iterations feel more like a reinterpretation than a homage – a fact that divides purists.
Polished, Powerful, but Missing the Spark
Slip the current GMT-Master II onto your wrist, and its craftsmanship is undeniable. The Everose gold glows with a rosy warmth, while the Oyster bracelet’s solid links and Glidelock clasp offer Rolex’s signature robustness. At 40mm, the case feels substantial yet balanced, and the ceramic bezel’s fade-resistant hues are a technical marvel. But here’s the rub: where’s the quirk?
The original Root Beer thrived on contradictions – a tool watch dressed in gold, a rugged piece with a dandyish streak. The modern versions, by contrast, are relentlessly polished. The Jubilee bracelet, once a staple of the design, has been replaced by the sportier Oyster. The bezel’s glossy Cerachrom lacks the vintage model’s grainy texture, and the black dial feels more boardroom than beachside. These watches are like a tailored tuxedo: impeccable, but lacking the rumpled charm of a well-loved leather jacket. 
Why the Vintage Still Intoxicates
Handling a ref. 1675/3 is like stumbling into a dimly lit speakeasy. The yellow gold whispers rather than shouts, its lume faded to a ghostly cream. The brown dial, deeper than espresso, pairs effortlessly with the two-tone bezel – a combo that feels both retro and timeless. On the wrist, it’s lighter than expected, thanks to the hollow-link Jubilee bracelet, which clatters faintly with every movement. This is a watch that begs to be lived in, its imperfections part of its allure.
The modern models? They’re flawless. Too flawless. The Everose Rolesor ref. 126711CHNR, for instance, dazzles with its seamless blend of rose gold and steel. But it’s missing the vintage’s playful irreverence. Even the two-tone option feels more like a status symbol than a storyteller.
A Fantasy Revival
What if Rolex blended the best of both worlds? Imagine a steel-and-yellow-gold replica Rolex GMT-Master II with a Jubilee bracelet, a sunburst brown dial, and a ceramic bezel in maroon and cream – a true heir to the 1675/3. Rolex has already revived the “Pepsi” and “Sprite” GMTs; a proper Root Beer revival seems inevitable. Until then, collectors face a choice: hunt down a vintage piece (prices start at €10,000 for a ref. 16753) or settle for Tudor’s Black Bay GMT S&G, which channels the original’s vibe at a fraction of the cost.
The modern Root Beers are technical masterpieces, their engineering unmatched. But they’re also victims of their own precision – sleek where the vintage was soulful, calculated where the original was carefree. For now, the true Root Beer remains a relic of the past, a reminder that sometimes, the best flavors are the ones that linger, not the ones that dazzle.
